Tiliqua Time is not a Veterinary Service, there are no licensed vet's that work for Tiliqua Time. Any advise given, is to help you out until you can get your animal to a Licensed Veterinarian. You will see the word VET many times. Just know that vet stands for Licensed Veterinarian.
Your skink will sneeze from time to time. Naturally they dig and burrow, so they may get some loose substrate lodges in their nostrils. This is perfectly Normal.
They do whistle just as sneezing or they may have something in their nostrils.
Whistling is mistaken for Wheezing all the time. Put your skink up to your ear. If the sound is on the exale you are most likely good. If the sound is on the inhale, then you may need a VET.
If the noise is here and there you may be good, but if it is with every breath. You need to and go see a vet.
Gaping Mouth and not like Thermo regulating, Weight Loss, Wheezing, Clicking Noises, Bubbly or Stringy mucus in or around the Mouth,
Shallow rapid breathing are all signs of a possible URI.
With any of these symptoms go see a Vet.
You will notice unusually brown or black spots, maybe flaking skin, blisters, and open wounds. See a vet immediately. Scale rot can be fatal.
Discard all substrate. Thoroughly clean the enclosure. Do this with reptile mites, parasites and ground or wood mites.
You can do everything perfect. You stop by the store and grab some crickets. Sometimes these live insects can carry parasites with them. Try to make sure that you know where the food sources that you use are coming from.
You may notice things in your skinks poo. I always recommend a stool sample test at a veterinarians office.
Your skink may have weight loss, become lethargic, have a loss of appetite.
Go see a Vet.
God, the dreaded little black insects that no one wants to deal with.
You will eventually see them. You may notice your skink with a loss of appetite, being lethargic or rubbing all over everything. Go to the Vet ASAP.
Follow everything they tell you do.
Metabolic Bone Disease-You may notice swollen joints, lethargy, loss of appetite, twitching, loss of coordination, curved and soft limbs.
Not much to be done other than giving them the Proper UVB lighting, and making sure that their D3 needs are met. You should be providing balanced meals. I am not saying oxalates cause MBD. But if you have obtained a skink with MBD, stay away from High oxalate and goitrogenic foods. These types of foods bind calcium and discards it out of the skinks body. If you do have a skink with MBD you can prevent them from getting worse.
This normally happens when you feed things such as watermelon, cucumber, pumpkin and things of this nature. If it last more than a couple of days, go see a Vet.
In case of stuck shed or constipation,
a warm bath can work wonders. Let them soak for up to 15 minutes. This will help release the stuck shed or help their bowels move. It can take a normal bowel movement up to a week. Though most adult skinks poop every few days.
Vinegar, The smell right?
Vinegar will be very useful to you as it can be used clean your enclosure, especially glass.
In the event that your vet is closed, vinegar can also be used to clean wounds as it is non toxic to your skink.
A few things that you should invest in just in case you run into problems after hours.
1. Vinegar as listed for cleaning wounds.
2. Pain free Triple Antibiotic Ointment,
this can hold you over in times of need, for an open wound. Do not gob it on. Just apply a thin layer.
Feeding your Indo can be entertaining.
They can be so funny to watch. But please see our food page and make sure that you are not over feeding.
Once over weight, it is just as inhumane to make them loose weight.
Yes, make them loose weight. Their matabolism is slow. They are not super active creatures. You will have to cut back on all feedings to cut weight, with no in between snacks.
This can seem cruel.
You can definitely tell with an underweight skink. I am no dietitian but more protein and bananas can pack on some weight. Feed more frequently. A vet will put together a good meal plan.High fat foods consist of things like pinkies, bananas, superworms, squash and many more.
Your skink is an opportunistic eater.
They are mini garbage disposals.
A hungry skink is not a picky skink.
If your skink isn't eating either it is sick, or may be being overfed.
Skip the snacks, maybe space your indo's meals out a bit more. Your skink can go well over a month without food. They will not starve. Don't go a month, not even weeks, just give it a couple extra days in between meals.
This behavior is a pain to deal with.
You have to figure out what is causing this behavior.
Most common causes are Stress, Boredom, Lack of security (not enough hides or an enclosure that is too bare), if Husbandry is not correct or if they see their reflection.
Glass surfing is not a form of dance, it is not cute, it is a harmful behavior that most of us deal with at one time or another. Glass surfing can cause physical injury.
A Happy and Healthy skink starts and ends with Proper Husbandry.
90% of most problems can be corrected through Husbandry.
You should always ask first,
Is my Humidity Good?
Are my temps good?
Is my substrate good?
What did I feed last?
Your Indo is a tropical creature, Indonesia does not have cold seasons.
These lizards do not have a need to brumate.
What is brumation?
Brumation is a stage that reptiles go through during the cold months.
With warm blooded creatures this is known as hibernation.
If your skink does get to cold, then they can and most likely will act lethargic. This can often be confused with brumation. This is why we should check the temperatures at least once a day.
-Also see Adrian's Corner
This is why we shouldn't reach above our skinks head, to pick our skinks up.
A lot of you already know this. Some of you may not. Some of you may know they have a so called so called 3rd eye, called the Parietal Eye, but don't know it's function. It's more of a sensory organ.
Connected to the Pineal Organ which functions hormone production such as reproduction & thermoregulation (Their natural thermostat).
The Parietal Eye works like a dosimeter to detect Uvb light and heat.
It operates the skinks Circadian Rhythym to tell the difference between daytime and nighttime.
The Parietal eye cannot produce images, but also helps the your skink detect Predators.
Pictured Above is Ramone's parietal eye.
The Jacobson's organ is located in the roof of your Indo's mouth. It is a short range Chemoreceptor of non airbourne odors, this helps to detect prey.
Skinks may bite. Will it hurt? Yes, they have powerful little jaws. Yes, they have Teeth. What they do not possess is the ability do do significant harm.
How to tell the sex?
XRays are 100% Accurate.
But who wants to spend that kind of money just to know if you have a
Steve or a Stephanie?
A dropped sperm plug can answer this for you. They can start dropping plugs as early as a few months old. Frequency depends on the skink.
Physical differences are but not limited to.
Males tend to have larger pronounced heads, more pointier snouts, Broader shoulders, Brighter eyes. A male will be more triangular. Meaning the front shoulders will be wider than the hips.
A female will usually have a smaller head, meaning rounder snout. The female body will be more rectangular. Their shoulders are not usually wider than the hips. This is not 100% accurate, as their are anomalies in both sexes. Some of you may have heard the term "popping" Please do not try this no matter what you see or read about, unless you are a breeder or trained professional. This method is not 100% accurate either and may damage the creature.
Xrays are the only 100% accurate way of telling if you have a male or female.
There are a couple of theories as to why these skinks have blue tongues.
They like to show these tongues in defense when threatened. Which leads me to this point.
They can, but very rarely drop their tail.
They are pretty defenseless in the wild. Their only tactics involve waiving that cute little tongue around, flattening out, and hissing.
If this does not work to scare off predators, they may turn around and drop their tail. Hoping that the predator will grab the tail instead of them as they scurry off.
This happens in the wild, I have not heard of or seen any stories about bluey's dropping their tails in captivity.
Article by: Kasey Leah in Repti Time BOOM📷 She hit the nail on the head with this one📷
Don't Purchase Wild Caught(WC)...........
This is the recommendation I see time and time again, but why? Cruel shipping conditions, parasites, temperament, and the of course, "How dare you take that animal and confine it to an enclosure; it deserves to remain wild". I do not support the overcrowding, poor transport, and lack of regulations that come with the importation of reptiles but I would never recommend against acquiring a wild caught animal. There are positives to having WC animals, such as: research, start captive breeding, increase the numbers of a threatened species, and overpopulation in the wild. If you want to acquire a WC animal, I want to provide the resources to successfully care for it instead of just telling you not to do it! There are a few variations of "WC" you can acquire. These are ordered based on risk in regards to animal health and conditions of treatment.
⦁ Directly from an importer/supplier-usually in the country for a few weeks or months. No health screening, may still have injuries from transport(stuck shed, abrasions, injury from other animals, parasites or illness)
⦁ Long term Captive-usually been in captivity 6-12+ months; I would consider this as an animal that has acclimated to the captive life: has had quarantine, usually has had initial health screening, regularly eating habits, and started social interaction to humans.
⦁ Farm Raised-Born here from an animal kept in large open spaces similar to their wild habitats. Just like a breeder or store, depending on the farm there are variations of level of care; research the farm you want to acquire from. *Some farms may pose a higher risk due to their specific practices. 1. Prepare⦁ Research the species you are interested in acquiring
⦁ Some WC species have minimal resources for care information-Talk to someone who has had one! ⦁ Find an exotic vet clinic in your area
⦁ Acquire all supplies including quarantine supplies.
⦁ Have the following available in case needed: ⦁ Iodine-stuck shed soaks ⦁ Chlorohex-clean injuries or abrasions
⦁ Rapashy-liquid food option in case syringe feeding is needed
⦁ Vitamins/Supplements-Boost health for malnourished/lethargic reptile
⦁ Pedi sure-Used as soak for malnurished/lethargic reptile
2. Set-up a Quarantined Enclosure ⦁ Select a secluded area to keep the quarantined reptile.
⦁ It should be in a different room than other pets
⦁ A low traffic space to allow time for acclimation and normal behavior
⦁ Select an enclosure, you can use the main enclosure or create a temporary with Rubbermaid or plastic totes. (ensure it is safe for heat fixtures).
⦁ Us paper towel or equivalent for substrate(You want to be able to monitor defecation)
⦁ Create quarantine hides or use a hide that can be easily sanitized or disposed of(Tupperware, paper bags, Rubbermaid containers). One should be a humid hide, moss or wet paper towel can be used.
⦁ Place an easily sanitizable or disposable water and food dish. I recommend an escape proof feeder for insectivores(You want to be able to monitor eating)
⦁ Add easily sanitized décor or décor you can dispose of following use.
3. Acquiring new Reptile ⦁ Research supplier and view customer feedback
⦁ Perform an general exam on the reptile you are looking to acquire
⦁ Check for stuck shed or injuries
⦁ Check all toes and tail are present
⦁ Check temperament, they should be a little feisty and resist handling.
⦁ Too calm or lack of movement could mean illness
⦁ Check around eyes and mouth for abnormalities or signs of infection
⦁ Look at current enclosure to see if it is appropriate conditions, fecal matter present, signs of the animal being active
⦁ Check scales for abnormalities, mites, or fungus.
⦁ Ask questions
⦁ When did the reptile arrive in the US?
⦁ Have they eaten and defecated?
⦁ Have they had a health exam, treatments, and/or a fecal performed?
⦁ Have they been housed with other reptiles?
⦁ Are they active and behaving normally?
4. Bringing Reptile Home
⦁ Place in quarantine enclosure with feed/water
⦁ Monitor daily for signs of eating and defecation
⦁ After about 3 days do a general exam of the reptile and obtain a weight
⦁ Ensure there is no decline in condition from initial acquisition
⦁ Monitor weight weekly for 1-2 months
⦁ Once defecation occurs take fecal to the local Vet
⦁ If negative, place animal in primary enclosure after 2 weeks in quarantine
⦁ If positive, seek treatment options and keep animal in quarantine
⦁ At any time something seems abnormal or declining condition seek a veterinary appointment
⦁ Set up a general health exam at the veterinarian 1-2 months after acquiring. The reason I recommend this instead of immediate is this will ensure your care practices are appropriate. If you seek an exam upon arrival the condition of the animal is from the supplier's care or import. You want to ensure your care and husbandry are appropriate, not the suppliers. You can still choose to acquire an animal with health concerns, please just also prepare yourself for the care, time,, and costs associated with acquiring such as: vet bills, treatment regimen, force feeding, risk of animal death or contaminating other pets. I honestly follow the above process for any new reptile I acquire. There is always a risk even if captive bred. It all depends on the breeder/supplier.
Do your research and be prepared.
*Also see Taboo Topics Page*
Within these pages you can learn what you need in order to have a Happy & Healthy Indonesian Blue Toungue Skink.
If you are here just to look, that's ok too. Please be our guest and enjoy!!!